Sewing for fashion designers / Anette Fischer.

Includes bibliographical references and index.

1. Getting Started -- 2. Materials and Sewing Supplies -- 3. The Basic Stitches -- 4. Sewing Techniques -- 5. Fabric- and Cut-Specific Techniques -- --

Introduction -- -- 1. Getting Started -- The Studio -- Pins and Needles -- Cutting Equipment -- Marking Tools -- Measuring Tapes and Rulers -- The Right Sewing Machine for the Job -- How to Get the Perfect Stitch Tension and Pressure -- Machines for Special Tasks -- What to Watch out for when Stitching Seams -- Pressing Equipment -- Taking Body Measurements -- How to Work With Patterns -- Understanding Symbols on Patterns -- Seam Allowance -- Hem Allowance -- Cutting-Out Technique -- How to Use the Grainline -- Preparing the Fabric -- Pattern Layout on the Fabric -- How to Mark the Pattern onto the Fabric -- Cutting Out the Fabric -- -- 2. Materials and Sewing Aids -- Fabrics -- Natural, man-made fibres and synthetics -- Fabric construction -- Cotton -- Wool -- Silk -- Linen -- Man-made and Synthetic Fibres -- Surface Characteristic Fabrics -- Knitted and Jersey Fabrics -- Lining -- Lace -- Haberdashery -- Closures -- Buttons -- Zips -- Velcro -- Snap fastenings -- Hooks-and-eyes -- Magnetic fastenings -- Buckles and clasps -- Other fasteners -- Threads -- Tapes and Bindings -- Trims and Decorations -- Supporting Materials -- Fusible and non-fusible interfacings -- How to Apply Interfacing -- Where to Apply Interfacing on -- Garments -- Netting, Organza and Organdie -- Quilting and Padding -- Corsetry and Underpinnings -- Supporting Materials for Corsetry -- Fastening Options -- Corset Variations -- -- 3. The Basic Stitches -- Hand sewing techniques -- Starting and finishing -- Waste knot -- Figure-eight knot -- Tailor's knot -- Backstitch tack -- Temporary and permanent hand stitches -- Tacking stitch -- Running stitch -- Back stitch -- Prick stitch -- Slipstitch -- Hemming stitch -- Herringbone stitch -- Overcast stitch -- Blanket stitch -- Buttonhole stitch -- Machine seams and seam finishes -- Stitch length and usage -- Neatening the seam allowance -- Overlocked finish -- Bound finish -- Bias binding -- Pinked finish -- Clean-finished -- Zigzag finish -- Overcast finish -- Raw edge finish -- Choosing the right seam -- Plain seam -- French seam -- Flat fell seam -- Welt seam -- Matching up seams -- Enhancing and securing the seam -- Topstitch -- Edge stitch -- Retain stitch -- Sink stitch -- Raw edge deconstructed finish -- Trimming seams and reducing bulk -- Shaped seams -- Taped seams -- Facings -- -- 4. Sewing Techniques -- Gathers, Pleats, Tucks and Darts -- Gathers -- Pleats -- Box pleat -- Knife pleat -- Edge and topstitched pleats -- Tucks -- Pin tucks -- Darts -- Single-pointed darts -- Securing the dart point -- Pressing the dart -- Double-point darts -- Shaping techniques -- The Neckline -- Collar features -- Stabilizing the collar -- Attaching a collar -- The shirt collar -- Lapel collar -- Notched collar -- Constructing stretch necklines -- T-shirt style neckline with ribbing -- Neck facing -- All-in-one facing -- The Waistline -- Straight waistband -- Belt loops -- Elasticated waistband -- Tailored waistband with zip guard -- Drawstring waistband -- Waistline facings -- Fastening options for waistbands -- Pockets -- The pocket bag -- Applied pocket variations -- Lined patch pocket -- Unlined patch pocket -- Bellow pocket -- Set-in pocket variations -- Jet pocket -- Welt pocket -- Slant pocket -- Under pocket in lining with self-fabric bag -- Side seam pocket -- The Sleeve -- Shirtsleeve -- Raglan sleeve -- Kimono sleeve -- The perfect set-in sleeve -- Placket and sleeve openings -- Continuous bound placket -- Hemmed sleeve opening -- Shirt placket -- Cuff variations -- Open cuff -- Closed cuff -- Underarm gusset -- Hemlines -- Preparing for a turned-under hem -- Topstitched hem -- Faced hemline -- Trouser cuffs -- Pin hem -- Hand sewn hem -- Baby-locked hem finish -- Bound hem finish -- Mitred hem -- Shirt hem -- Fused hemlines -- Lining -- Lining patterns -- Full lining -- Lining a jacket -- Vents -- Lined vent with mitred corners -- Partial lining -- Fastenings -- Buttons and buttonholes -- Grown-on button stand for a shirt -- Sewn-on placket for a shirt -- Hidden button stand for a shirt -- Sewing on buttons -- Buttonhole types -- Loop fastenings -- Rouleau loops -- Hand-sewn loops -- Tabs -- Snap fasteners -- Magnet fastenings -- Velcro fastenings -- Hook-and-eye -- Zips -- Shortening a zip -- Prepare for the zip opening -- Centred zip -- Fly zip -- Lapped zip -- Concealed zip -- Exposed zip -- Open-ended zip -- The Finishing Touch -- Underpressing and final pressing -- -- 5. Surface and Cut-Specific Techniques -- Denim -- Pattern cutting -- Construction -- Fabric-specific elements -- Knitted and Stretch-Woven Fabrics -- Pattern cutting -- Construction -- Ribbing -- Transparent and Semi-Transparent Fabrics -- Pattern cutting -- Construction -- Lace, Sequined and Beaded Fabric -- Pattern cutting -- Construction -- Napped and Pile Fabric -- Pattern cutting -- Construction -- Leather and Fur -- Pattern cutting -- Construction -- Felted and Nonwoven Fabrics -- Pattern cutting -- Construction -- Latex, Neoprene and Plastic Materials -- Pattern cutting -- Construction -- Mixing Fabrics -- Patterned Fabric -- Pattern cutting and layout -- Construction.

This comprehensive guide explores all the fundamental sewing methods and introduces professional garment construction.

"This comprehensive guide explores the fundamental sewing methods fashion designers need and teaches professional garment construction. Chapter One introduces sewing tools and machinery (including industrial machines). It discusses how to work with patterns and explains cutting-out methods. Chapter Two is devoted to different fabrics and how they work, focusing on the construction of a garment, including fastenings and trimmings, and the use of materials to support structured pieces, such as corsets. Hand-sewing techniques and basic seams are explored in Chapter Three. Techniques are demonstrated with step-by-step photographic guides combined with technical drawings. A guide to making garment details and decorations, such as pockets, waistlines and necklines, is found in Chapter Four. Chapter Five addresses fabric-specific techniques, for everything from lace to neoprene. The best technical approaches to use for pattern cutting and construction are discussed for each fabric. Catwalk images demonstrate how these kinds of techniques are employed by designers."--Publisher's website.